Anyone planning a trip to Japan has probably come across Hakone. Just a short hop from Tokyo, it’s a mountain town best known for its onsens, autumn foliage, and fleeting views of Mt Fuji. That was reason enough for it to make it onto my first Japan itinerary. 

But when I sat down to plan, I noticed something: every single article told me how to get to Hakone from Tokyo. What if, like me, you’re already in Kawaguchiko? Would I really have to backtrack to Tokyo just to head out again the next morning? 

I hit all the travel forums and on paper, the easiest way is to rent a car, about 55 km and a little over an hour’s drive. The second-best option is a patchwork of buses that should take 2.5 hours but often stretches longer. I get terribly car sick, and the thought of winding mountain roads didn’t appeal. Add in horror stories from other travelers who missed connections or got stuck for four hours, and I almost gave up. Then I stumbled upon this little-known route by train without having to go all the way to the heart of Tokyo, and that’s how I made it to Hakone, transfers and all. 

Tip: If, unlike me, you’re planning to explore both Kawaguchiko and Hakone by road, look into the Fuji Hakone Pass offered by Odakyu. It covers round trip fares from Shinjuku to Odaware and transport across both regions – including buses, trains, the Lake Ashi cruise, and even the Hakone Ropeway. Valid for three days, it’s a convenient and cost-effective option that can save you both time and money. 

The Journey

I planned to reach Hakone by evening and took the Fuji Excursion (to Shinjuku) that leaves Kawaguchiko at 15:39. In under 90 minutes, I was at Hachioji, where I switched to the JR Yokohama Line toward Higashi-Kanagawa. Trains come every 8–10 minutes, so there’s no stress if you miss one.

Next stop: Machida – just under half an hour away. From here, I transferred to the Odakyu Line express bound for Odawara. These run every 10-20 minutes, which gave me plenty of time to navigate the station.

At Odawara, I boarded the Hakone Tozan Railway for a short 15-minute ride to Hakone-Yumoto. Trains run every 20 minutes, and before I knew it, I had arrived. All in, the journey took me around 3.5–4 hours with transfers, but it was seamless and never stressful.

Since my hotel was in Hakone-Yumoto, this route worked perfectly. If you’re staying further in – around Gora, for example – you’ll need one more leg, but it’s still straightforward.

Where I Stayed

As someone with tattoos (and a little shy about public baths), I opted for Hotel Zagakukan, where spring water is piped directly into your room. It was a splurge but worth every yen. After days of rushing between trains and towns, soaking in private onsen waters was a true indulgence. The hotel also offers thoughtful extras – the kind of small touches that make you want to linger.

Tip: if you have low blood pressure like I do, sip water steadily and don’t soak for too long, or you’ll end up lightheaded.

My one real stop was Owakudani, Hakone’s volcanic valley. The air hung thick with sulfur, and suddenly – there was Fuji again, distant but striking nonetheless. It felt cinematic, like the mountain wasn’t quite done with me yet.

Hakone, though, has much more to offer than I could fit in. Weather kept me from the Lake Ashi cruise, where you can board galleon-style sightseeing ships at Togendai Port and drift across the lake, with Fuji and Hakone Shrine’s torii gates as your backdrop. It’s high on my list for next time.

Other Notable Stops in Hakone

Okada Museum of Art
Tucked into quiet greenery, this museum holds an incredible collection of Japanese and East Asian art. Even if art isn’t usually your thing, the serene gardens and foot bath café make it a restorative stop.

Hakone Open-Air Museum
An outdoor gallery where sculptures live among mountains and meadows. From sprawling lawns to forested corners, each piece feels part of the landscape. Don’t miss the Picasso Pavilion if you go.

Oh, and a special shoutout to BOX BURGER — by far one of the best veggie burgers I’ve ever had, made even better by the sweetest women who run the place. Sometimes it’s these little discoveries that make a journey unforgettable.

And don’t forget to pick up some Hakone Rusk as omiyage from Grande Rivière Hakone Yumoto Store — it pairs especially well with coffee!