The Architect's Atlas

Tag: Mount Fuji Views

  • Vegetarian in Japan: How I Thrived (Not Just Survived!) Part 3

    Vegetarian in Japan: How I Thrived (Not Just Survived!) Part 3

    Part 3: Kawaguchiko & Hakone

    This is the final part of my three-part series on how I thrived as a vegetarian in Japan. Part 3 takes you through my favourite food discoveries in Kawaguchiko and Hakone, two regions that perfectly capture the calm, scenic charm of Japan’s countryside.

    (If you haven’t already, read my earlier posts on Tokyo and Kyoto)

    Food in Kawaguchiko and Hakone beautifully reflects the slower pace and natural abundance of rural Japan. Both areas are known for their fresh, locally sourced produce – think mountain vegetables, tofu, handmade noodles, and hearty hotpots that feel especially comforting in cooler weather. Vegetarian options can sometimes be limited, but what you’ll find is often wholesome, thoughtfully prepared, and served with genuine warmth.

    At Kinosuke, for example, the chef’s warmth truly lifted my spirits when, after a long and tiring day, I couldn’t find an open restaurant with vegetarian options. Though nothing on the menu was vegetarian, he kindly prepared a plate of crisp, freshly fried tempura vegetables, and served with a cold beer that made the simple meal feel like pure comfort.

    Where to Eat: Kawaguchiko

    (You can also read more about my Kawaguchiko experience here and here.)

    Lake Bake Café

    A charming lakeside café serving freshly baked breads, pastries, and coffee, all with views of Mt. Fuji on a clear day. It’s a popular spot, so expect queues on sunny mornings. I visited on a rainy day with Fuji-san hidden behind clouds, and found the quirky animal decor quite charming.

    Momijitei Hoto

    Famous for Hoto Nabe, Yamanashi Prefecture’s beloved noodle stew. Thick, flat wheat noodles simmering in a rich miso broth with seasonal vegetables, it’s hearty, nourishing and perfect for cold, rainy days. I tried both their vegetarian options – pumpkin and mushroom. 

    Hoto at Momiji-tei, exactly what I needed on a wet cold day in Kawaguchiko

    Fuji Tempura Idaten

    A lively, casual restaurant serving crisp tempura and comforting bowls of yoshido udon. I stopped here for dinner and left happily full. Don’t forget to buy your jar of local suridane, a flavorful chili-sesame condiment local to the region.

    Where to Eat: Hakone

    (You can read more about my Hakone experience here.)

    Box Burger

    A small, cozy eatery serving some of the best vegetarian burgers I’ve had anywhere. Run by a warm, friendly team of women, the place exudes comfort and kindness.

    Other Notable Vegetarian-Friendly Spots

    Kawaguchiko

    • Houtou Fudou – Another local favourite for hoto noodle soup, with hearty vegetarian options.
    • La Luce – Highly rated Italian restaurant offering vegetarian and vegan-friendly dishes.
    • Shaw’s Sushi Bar & Dining – Sushi restaurant with vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options.

    Hakone

    • Shika Jaya – Traditional tea house setting, serving yam and tofu dishes.
    • 808 Monsmare – Italian restaurant with wood-fired pizzas and vegetarian options.
    • Hatsuhana Soba Honten – Popular soba restaurant serving handmade noodles with yam.
    • Karuta – Intimate izakaya with several vegetarian dishes; expect a wait as it’s a small place, run by a couple.
    • Bakery & Table – Popular for its pastries and stunning Lake Ashi views (limited vegetarian options).La Terrazza – Italian restaurant with lakeside views and vegetarian choices.
    • Amazake Tea House –  A 400-year-old family-run tea house famed for its Amazake, a warm, non-alcoholic “sweet sake.” A little off the beaten path, best reached by car or with patience for local buses.
  • How I Travelled from Kawaguchiko to Hakone (and Why it was Worth it)

    How I Travelled from Kawaguchiko to Hakone (and Why it was Worth it)

    Anyone planning a trip to Japan has probably come across Hakone. Just a short hop from Tokyo, it’s a mountain town best known for its onsens, autumn foliage, and fleeting views of Mt Fuji. That was reason enough for it to make it onto my first Japan itinerary. 

    But when I sat down to plan, I noticed something: every single article told me how to get to Hakone from Tokyo. What if, like me, you’re already in Kawaguchiko? Would I really have to backtrack to Tokyo just to head out again the next morning? 

    I hit all the travel forums and on paper, the easiest way is to rent a car, about 55 km and a little over an hour’s drive. The second-best option is a patchwork of buses that should take 2.5 hours but often stretches longer. I get terribly car sick, and the thought of winding mountain roads didn’t appeal. Add in horror stories from other travelers who missed connections or got stuck for four hours, and I almost gave up. Then I stumbled upon this little-known route by train without having to go all the way to the heart of Tokyo, and that’s how I made it to Hakone, transfers and all. 

    Tip: If, unlike me, you’re planning to explore both Kawaguchiko and Hakone by road, look into the Fuji Hakone Pass offered by Odakyu. It covers round trip fares from Shinjuku to Odaware and transport across both regions – including buses, trains, the Lake Ashi cruise, and even the Hakone Ropeway. Valid for three days, it’s a convenient and cost-effective option that can save you both time and money. 

    The Journey

    I planned to reach Hakone by evening and took the Fuji Excursion (to Shinjuku) that leaves Kawaguchiko at 15:39. In under 90 minutes, I was at Hachioji, where I switched to the JR Yokohama Line toward Higashi-Kanagawa. Trains come every 8–10 minutes, so there’s no stress if you miss one.

    Next stop: Machida – just under half an hour away. From here, I transferred to the Odakyu Line express bound for Odawara. These run every 10-20 minutes, which gave me plenty of time to navigate the station.

    At Odawara, I boarded the Hakone Tozan Railway for a short 15-minute ride to Hakone-Yumoto. Trains run every 20 minutes, and before I knew it, I had arrived. All in, the journey took me around 3.5–4 hours with transfers, but it was seamless and never stressful.

    Since my hotel was in Hakone-Yumoto, this route worked perfectly. If you’re staying further in – around Gora, for example – you’ll need one more leg, but it’s still straightforward.

    Where I Stayed

    As someone with tattoos (and a little shy about public baths), I opted for Hotel Zagakukan, where spring water is piped directly into your room. It was a splurge but worth every yen. After days of rushing between trains and towns, soaking in private onsen waters was a true indulgence. The hotel also offers thoughtful extras – the kind of small touches that make you want to linger.

    Tip: if you have low blood pressure like I do, sip water steadily and don’t soak for too long, or you’ll end up lightheaded.

    My one real stop was Owakudani, Hakone’s volcanic valley. The air hung thick with sulfur, and suddenly – there was Fuji again, distant but striking nonetheless. It felt cinematic, like the mountain wasn’t quite done with me yet.

    (L) Mt Fuji spotted from the Hakone Ropeway (R) Owakudani

    Hakone, though, has much more to offer than I could fit in. Weather kept me from the Lake Ashi cruise, where you can board galleon-style sightseeing ships at Togendai Port and drift across the lake, with Fuji and Hakone Shrine’s torii gates as your backdrop. It’s high on my list for next time.

    Other Notable Stops in Hakone

    Okada Museum of Art
    Tucked into quiet greenery, this museum holds an incredible collection of Japanese and East Asian art. Even if art isn’t usually your thing, the serene gardens and foot bath café make it a restorative stop.

    Hakone Open-Air Museum
    An outdoor gallery where sculptures live among mountains and meadows. From sprawling lawns to forested corners, each piece feels part of the landscape. Don’t miss the Picasso Pavilion if you go.

    kuro-tamago or black eggs — eggs boiled in the natural hot springs whose shells turn black due to the sulfur and iron in the water. Eating one is said to add seven years to your life!

    Oh, and a special shoutout to BOX BURGER — by far one of the best veggie burgers I’ve ever had, made even better by the sweetest women who run the place. Sometimes it’s these little discoveries that make a journey unforgettable.

    And don’t forget to pick up some Hakone Rusk as omiyage from Grande Rivière Hakone Yumoto Store — it pairs especially well with coffee!

  • Beyond the Checklist: Slowing Down with Mount Fuji at Kawaguchiko

    Beyond the Checklist: Slowing Down with Mount Fuji at Kawaguchiko

    If you haven’t already read Part 1 of my rainy-day Kawaguchiko adventures, you can find it here.

    After the rain and mist of Day 1, Day 2 dawned with glorious blue skies and glorious views of the majestic Mt. Fuji. I’ll admit—I briefly considered cramming in everything I’d missed along with all that I still wanted to see. But sense prevailed. Instead of rushing, I chose to slow down and truly savor Fuji-san and his towering presence.

    First stop: Arakura Fuji Sengen Shrine
    The fastest and easiest way from my hotel was to ride the Fujikyuko Line (for Otsuki) to Shimo-Yoshida. On the way to Kawaguchiko station, I passed the now-famous Lawson convenience store. The barriers were down when I visited in November 2024, but I could see why they were necessary to preserve the quality of life for locals. Even early in the day, tourists were already queuing for that iconic photo. Did I pose? I cringe to admit that I did—but I was mindful of etiquette and tried to be as unobtrusive as possible.

    A short walk from Shimo-Yoshida station brought me to the base of Arakurayama, where the Arakura Fuji Sengen Shrine rests quietly in a grove of trees, its vivid red torii visible from afar. Built to pacify Fuji’s volcanic activity and natural disasters, it is one of many shrines dedicated to Fuji. I paused to pay my respects and received a goshuin, a hand-stamped calligraphed seal offered by the shrine maidens, who in their white robes were a graceful reminder of the shrine’s reverence.

    Arakura Fuji Sengen Shrine and the goshuin I received here

    From there, nearly 400 steps rise through the hillside forest, leading to the iconic Chureito Pagoda in Arakurayama Sengen Park. This five-storied pagoda, built as a peace memorial, stands watch over the town with Fuji framed in the background. You’ve likely seen the image countless times on postcards, in magazines, and on Instagram—but standing there in person felt different. More intimate. The quiet murmur of fellow travelers, the soft rustle of trees, the faint temple bells—all folding into the view. In spring, cherry blossoms frame the scene; in autumn, the maples blaze with fire. On my visit, the treetops had only just begun to tinge red, while Fuji-san played shy, peeking in and out of clouds. I lingered at the observation deck, content simply to breathe in the view.

    A view you’ve seen a hundred times on postcards and screens, yet nothing compares to standing here in person

    As I made my way down, fueled by locally brewed kombucha and ice cream, I noticed this young couple posing for photos on the steps. Their laughter and ease left me with a memory so vivid it still lives on, quite literally, as the lock screen of my phone

    Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway

    With some time left before my train, I headed to the Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway. In just a few minutes, it glides up Mount Tenjo to sweeping views over Kawaguchiko and, if you’re lucky, Fuji in all his glory. The long but quick-moving queue was easy to endure, especially as the lake unfolded beneath me during the ascent. At the summit, observation decks and walking trails revealed Fuji and the lake.

    Kawaguchiko, from the ropeway ride

    Other places to visit if you have time

    Oshino Hakkai
    A short trip from Kawaguchiko, Oshino Hakkai is a cluster of eight crystal-clear ponds, fed by snowmelt from Mount Fuji filtered for decades through volcanic rock. 

    Fuji-Q Highland
    For something entirely different, Fuji-Q Highland delivers adrenaline with a view. The park is famed for its record-breaking roller coasters, each one designed to thrill while framing Fuji dramatically in the background. It’s a surreal juxtaposition—serenity and spirituality on one hand, sheer heart-pounding excitement on the other.

    And if you’re wondering why I haven’t mentioned the onsens, it’s because my next stop was Hakone—famous for its natural springs and a story for another day.

    Collecting memories, one stamp at a time