When a friend asked if I wanted to visit Bikaner, my answer was a resounding yes! Famous for its havelis and palaces, this desert city has long been on my list. The catch? I had just about 15 hours to explore.Since this was a work-meets-leisure trip, I knew time would slip away quickly, so I built an itinerary that was less ambitious than usual. With only a day to plan, my itinerary and route was more instinctive than meticulous. Still, the promise of discovery was enough.

Getting there 

While IndiGo runs a direct flight from Delhi, our schedule nudged us towards the overnight Bikaner SF Express (12457) from Gurgaon. Boarding just past midnight, the scene was less than reassuring: a half-renovated, nondescript station, no officials in sight, and, in true cinematic fashion, an inebriated man running about covered in blood and yelling theft. Needless to say, I was relieved when the faint glow of train lights appeared on the horizon.  An uneventful seven hours later, we rolled into the bustle of Platform 6 at Bikaner Junction, ready to start the day.

Where to stay 

If I had the luxury of time, Narendra Bhawan would have been my first pick. But for a whirlwind stop, I chose the charming Cavalry Villa, just a short walk from the railway station. It was the perfect base for our sojourn and we were welcomed with an early check-in and a homely breakfast of parathas, fruit and cereal. After a quick nap, I was ready to dive into the city.

Junagarh Fort

A short rickshaw ride later, I found myself before Junagarh Fort, and it immediately stood apart. Unlike Rajasthan’s hilltop citadels, this one rises from the very heart of the city, its sandstone walls guarding a maze of palaces and courtyards. Entry is by guided tour, with groups admitted in batches, though I inevitably lost mine—lingering too long under the spell of mirrored ceilings and vibrant frescoes.

What struck me most was the quiet. Unlike the bustling forts of Jaipur or Jodhpur, here I could slow down, wander and imagine the rhythm of life that once filled these spaces. Junagarh fort felt less like a monument and more like a secret waiting for travelers who take the time to wander a little off the usual trail. 

Adding to the allure is the fort’s extraordinary collection of artefacts, preserved within its walls and in its museum. Beyond the ornate halls lie royal costumes, manuscripts, and everyday objects that reveal the cultural depth of Bikaner—even a fully restored Haviland DH-9 World War I aircraft, one of the few of its kind still in existence.

The armoury is especially striking, with weapons so finely crafted they feel more like works of art than instruments of war. Then there are the quirks that make the museum unforgettable: a caricature of the Indian Round Table Conference sketched by Emery Kelen, or Maharaja Ganga Singh’s specially commissioned soup spoon—ordered from Reed & Barton in Massachusetts—designed to protect his famously waxed handlebar moustache.

Together, these treasures make Junagarh not just an architectural wonder but a living archive, where stories of Bikaner linger in every corner.

Sri Sadul Museum & Lalgarh Palace

Next, I made my way to Lalgarh Palace, once the residence of the royal family, now partly a hotel, The Laxmi Niwas Palace, and partly a royal residence. What visitors can access today is the Sri Sadul Museum. While you can admire the palace’s Indo-Saracenic façade and sprawling grounds from outside, stepping into the museum is where the past truly unfolds. The galleries hold an eclectic collection—regal portraits, hunting trophies, handwritten letters, and even candid photographs of Maharaja Ganga Singh and his successors that trace their lives beyond the throne. I found the museum fascinating not for its grandeur, but for the personal glimpses it offers into royal life.

A surprising highlight? A refreshingly perfect glass of fresh lime soda in at the hotel, which felt like the most fitting pause before plunging back into the heat.

A Taste of Narendra Bhawan

Though I wasn’t staying at Narendra Bhawan, I couldn’t resist a lunch stop. Once the residence of Maharaja Narendra Singh, it’s now been reimagined into a boutique stay that blends royal nostalgia with playful, contemporary design. Even in the briefest of visits, the food stood out—thoughtfully plated, delicious, and hinting at a deeper story I know I’d have to return for. 

Rampuria Havelis

By late afternoon, fatigue had set in, but I wasn’t leaving Bikaner without seeing the Rampuria Havelis. Walking down the narrow lanes of the old city, you suddenly find yourself dwarfed by these opulent mansions –  an endless row of red sandstone façades carved with latticed windows, ornate balconies, and grand archways. Built by the wealthy Rampuria merchant family, they showcase a frozen chapter of Bikaner’s mercantile past. Standing there, I understood why Aldous Huxley once called them the “pride of Bikaner.” It was the perfect finale to my brief adventure.

Of course, no trip to Bikaner is complete without its famous Bhujia, and the much-recommended Bishanlal Babulal did not disappoint. I can almost taste it again as I write this—crisp, spicy, and utterly addictive.

At 10:20 pm, I boarded the Bikaner–Delhi Express (12458), wrapping up my whirlwind 15 hours in the city. Bikaner left me wanting more, and I know I’ll be back—next time, not just for the monuments, but to linger longer in its stories.

Practical Tips for a Visit to Bikaner

Getting There
Bikaner is well connected to Delhi by both rail and air. Daily overnight trains run from Delhi (around 7–8 hours) and are often the most time-efficient way to arrive early in the morning, ready to start exploring. If you’d rather fly, IndiGo currently operates direct flights from Delhi, with Bikaner’s small airport located about 15 km outside the city. 

Best Time to Visit
The desert climate makes October to March the most comfortable window to explore. Days are pleasant, perfect for wandering through forts and havelis, while evenings can get chilly—so carry layers! Summers (April–June) can be unbearably hot, with temperatures soaring above 45°C, so it’s best avoided. 

Local Transport
Auto-rickshaws are the most convenient way to get around the city. Always agree on a price before you set off, as meters are rarely used. If you’re planning to cover multiple sites in a day, hiring an auto for a few hours (or the full day) can be economical.

Other Places of Interest

• Karni Mata Temple: About 30 km from Bikaner, this temple is famous for the thousands of rats that scurry freely inside. They’re considered sacred, and spotting a rare white rat is believed to bring good luck.
  
• National Research Centre on Camels: A quirky, only-in-Bikaner experience where you can see herds of camels up close, learn about different breeds, and even try camel milk kulfi or ice cream.
  
• Gajner Palace & Wildlife Sanctuary: Once a royal hunting lodge by a lake, this serene spot about 30 minutes from the city makes for a peaceful escape. The sanctuary is home to antelope and migratory birds in winter.
  
• Bhandasar Jain Temple: Known for its vibrant frescoes and intricate leaf paintings, this 15th-century temple is known to be one of the most exquisite examples of Jain architecture in Rajasthan.
  
• Devi Kund Sagar Cenotaphs: Just outside the city, this royal cremation ground is dotted with beautifully carved cenotaphs (chhatris) of Bikaner’s rulers, each telling its own story in sandstone and marble.
  
• Local Bazaars: The lanes around Kote Gate and the old city are full of colour—perfect for picking up leather mojris, handicrafts, miniature paintings, and (of course) fresh packets of Bikaneri Bhujia and sweets.