The Architect's Atlas

Tag: kawaguchiko

  • Vegetarian in Japan: How I Thrived (Not Just Survived!) Part 3

    Vegetarian in Japan: How I Thrived (Not Just Survived!) Part 3

    Part 3: Kawaguchiko & Hakone

    This is the final part of my three-part series on how I thrived as a vegetarian in Japan. Part 3 takes you through my favourite food discoveries in Kawaguchiko and Hakone, two regions that perfectly capture the calm, scenic charm of Japan’s countryside.

    (If you haven’t already, read my earlier posts on Tokyo and Kyoto)

    Food in Kawaguchiko and Hakone beautifully reflects the slower pace and natural abundance of rural Japan. Both areas are known for their fresh, locally sourced produce – think mountain vegetables, tofu, handmade noodles, and hearty hotpots that feel especially comforting in cooler weather. Vegetarian options can sometimes be limited, but what you’ll find is often wholesome, thoughtfully prepared, and served with genuine warmth.

    At Kinosuke, for example, the chef’s warmth truly lifted my spirits when, after a long and tiring day, I couldn’t find an open restaurant with vegetarian options. Though nothing on the menu was vegetarian, he kindly prepared a plate of crisp, freshly fried tempura vegetables, and served with a cold beer that made the simple meal feel like pure comfort.

    Where to Eat: Kawaguchiko

    (You can also read more about my Kawaguchiko experience here and here.)

    Lake Bake Café

    A charming lakeside café serving freshly baked breads, pastries, and coffee, all with views of Mt. Fuji on a clear day. It’s a popular spot, so expect queues on sunny mornings. I visited on a rainy day with Fuji-san hidden behind clouds, and found the quirky animal decor quite charming.

    Momijitei Hoto

    Famous for Hoto Nabe, Yamanashi Prefecture’s beloved noodle stew. Thick, flat wheat noodles simmering in a rich miso broth with seasonal vegetables, it’s hearty, nourishing and perfect for cold, rainy days. I tried both their vegetarian options – pumpkin and mushroom. 

    Hoto at Momiji-tei, exactly what I needed on a wet cold day in Kawaguchiko

    Fuji Tempura Idaten

    A lively, casual restaurant serving crisp tempura and comforting bowls of yoshido udon. I stopped here for dinner and left happily full. Don’t forget to buy your jar of local suridane, a flavorful chili-sesame condiment local to the region.

    Where to Eat: Hakone

    (You can read more about my Hakone experience here.)

    Box Burger

    A small, cozy eatery serving some of the best vegetarian burgers I’ve had anywhere. Run by a warm, friendly team of women, the place exudes comfort and kindness.

    Other Notable Vegetarian-Friendly Spots

    Kawaguchiko

    • Houtou Fudou – Another local favourite for hoto noodle soup, with hearty vegetarian options.
    • La Luce – Highly rated Italian restaurant offering vegetarian and vegan-friendly dishes.
    • Shaw’s Sushi Bar & Dining – Sushi restaurant with vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options.

    Hakone

    • Shika Jaya – Traditional tea house setting, serving yam and tofu dishes.
    • 808 Monsmare – Italian restaurant with wood-fired pizzas and vegetarian options.
    • Hatsuhana Soba Honten – Popular soba restaurant serving handmade noodles with yam.
    • Karuta – Intimate izakaya with several vegetarian dishes; expect a wait as it’s a small place, run by a couple.
    • Bakery & Table – Popular for its pastries and stunning Lake Ashi views (limited vegetarian options).La Terrazza – Italian restaurant with lakeside views and vegetarian choices.
    • Amazake Tea House –  A 400-year-old family-run tea house famed for its Amazake, a warm, non-alcoholic “sweet sake.” A little off the beaten path, best reached by car or with patience for local buses.
  • Beyond the Checklist: Slowing Down with Mount Fuji at Kawaguchiko

    Beyond the Checklist: Slowing Down with Mount Fuji at Kawaguchiko

    If you haven’t already read Part 1 of my rainy-day Kawaguchiko adventures, you can find it here.

    After the rain and mist of Day 1, Day 2 dawned with glorious blue skies and glorious views of the majestic Mt. Fuji. I’ll admit—I briefly considered cramming in everything I’d missed along with all that I still wanted to see. But sense prevailed. Instead of rushing, I chose to slow down and truly savor Fuji-san and his towering presence.

    First stop: Arakura Fuji Sengen Shrine
    The fastest and easiest way from my hotel was to ride the Fujikyuko Line (for Otsuki) to Shimo-Yoshida. On the way to Kawaguchiko station, I passed the now-famous Lawson convenience store. The barriers were down when I visited in November 2024, but I could see why they were necessary to preserve the quality of life for locals. Even early in the day, tourists were already queuing for that iconic photo. Did I pose? I cringe to admit that I did—but I was mindful of etiquette and tried to be as unobtrusive as possible.

    A short walk from Shimo-Yoshida station brought me to the base of Arakurayama, where the Arakura Fuji Sengen Shrine rests quietly in a grove of trees, its vivid red torii visible from afar. Built to pacify Fuji’s volcanic activity and natural disasters, it is one of many shrines dedicated to Fuji. I paused to pay my respects and received a goshuin, a hand-stamped calligraphed seal offered by the shrine maidens, who in their white robes were a graceful reminder of the shrine’s reverence.

    Arakura Fuji Sengen Shrine and the goshuin I received here

    From there, nearly 400 steps rise through the hillside forest, leading to the iconic Chureito Pagoda in Arakurayama Sengen Park. This five-storied pagoda, built as a peace memorial, stands watch over the town with Fuji framed in the background. You’ve likely seen the image countless times on postcards, in magazines, and on Instagram—but standing there in person felt different. More intimate. The quiet murmur of fellow travelers, the soft rustle of trees, the faint temple bells—all folding into the view. In spring, cherry blossoms frame the scene; in autumn, the maples blaze with fire. On my visit, the treetops had only just begun to tinge red, while Fuji-san played shy, peeking in and out of clouds. I lingered at the observation deck, content simply to breathe in the view.

    A view you’ve seen a hundred times on postcards and screens, yet nothing compares to standing here in person

    As I made my way down, fueled by locally brewed kombucha and ice cream, I noticed this young couple posing for photos on the steps. Their laughter and ease left me with a memory so vivid it still lives on, quite literally, as the lock screen of my phone

    Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway

    With some time left before my train, I headed to the Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway. In just a few minutes, it glides up Mount Tenjo to sweeping views over Kawaguchiko and, if you’re lucky, Fuji in all his glory. The long but quick-moving queue was easy to endure, especially as the lake unfolded beneath me during the ascent. At the summit, observation decks and walking trails revealed Fuji and the lake.

    Kawaguchiko, from the ropeway ride

    Other places to visit if you have time

    Oshino Hakkai
    A short trip from Kawaguchiko, Oshino Hakkai is a cluster of eight crystal-clear ponds, fed by snowmelt from Mount Fuji filtered for decades through volcanic rock. 

    Fuji-Q Highland
    For something entirely different, Fuji-Q Highland delivers adrenaline with a view. The park is famed for its record-breaking roller coasters, each one designed to thrill while framing Fuji dramatically in the background. It’s a surreal juxtaposition—serenity and spirituality on one hand, sheer heart-pounding excitement on the other.

    And if you’re wondering why I haven’t mentioned the onsens, it’s because my next stop was Hakone—famous for its natural springs and a story for another day.

    Collecting memories, one stamp at a time